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Joined 2 years ago
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Cake day: June 18th, 2023

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  • If the big squishy one was comfortable, I’d just put it back on and ignore the squeaking from it, and if you start going on rides that are long enough for it to become uncomfortable, then think about swapping it. It takes some time riding for your body to get used to sitting on a saddle, and if your body isn’t used to sitting on a saddle, then a hard narrow saddle is going to suck, even if it is otherwise a good fit for your body.

    When picking a new saddle, the most important thing is to get something that is the correct width for your sit bones. Many bike shops have devices to measure this. Your position on the bike also influences the type of saddle that will work best for you. If you ride a road bike with a leaned forward, aggressive position, a saddle that is a bit more narrow with less padding can be more comfortable over long distances, as long as it fits your body well. For more upright bikes, a slightly wider saddle with a tiny bit more padding often works better. Saddles with a ton of padding can often be uncomfortable for rides more than a few miles, as they can put pressure on the soft tissue between your sit bones. Finding the right saddle can take a few tries, but it is worth it. Cycling shorts also help a ton.

    The saddle in the article is not what I would start with. Designs like this can result in less control of the bike due to the saddle not having a nose. There are a few people who find that a saddle like this works well for them, but there is a reason they are not widely used.









  • Winter Cycling Tips:

    Studded tires make riding a bicycle on ice much safer. The front one insures you won’t fall on your face, the rear one helps give you enough traction to move forward.

    Full coverage fenders will keep your bike significantly cleaner, which means it corrode far less. And they keep snow/slush/water from flying up at you too.

    Cold drains batteries much quicker. Consider getting a dynamo lighting setup so you don’t have to rely on batteries.

    Your body generates a significant amount of heat while cycling, so it is best to dress so you will be somewhat cold the first mile or two, then you are more likely to be comfortable for the rest of the ride.






  • Overhaul as in pull the bearings out, clean them with degreaser, then inspect them. If the bearings are not pitted and the retainer isn’t bent out of shape, you can reuse them. If they are messed up, they are very cheap to replace, many bike shops will have replacements on hand. Once you have cleaned or gotten new bearings, pack the cups they sit in full of grease, and reassemble. Typically bearing retainers will have a side that is more rounded and a side that is more flat, you usually want to put them into the cup rounded side facing in.

    Once you have it back together, you want to adjust it. The goal is to have the bearings be as loose as possible while not having any play in them. You also want to make sure the locknut is tight against the cone.

    This page has info that will be useful for the bottom bracket.





  • BMX hubs tend to come with 3/8" axles rather than 10mm, which can potentially make it more difficult to find spare parts.

    Cheap hubs, whether BMX or not, do sacrifice durability to get a low price. If you want your wheels to last, don’t go too cheap. With single speed hubs, if they use sealed cartridge bearings, then they are probably nice enough to last a long time. There are options for high quality loose ball bearing hubs too, but they will typically cost more than an entry level cartridge bearing hub.